Monday, June 30, 2008

The Paris Eye

The Paris Eye
-focusing on the beauty that is a city

Next Post
-More suggestions for the St.Germain des Pres
and Jardin du Luxembourg areas

Sunday, June 29, 2008

St. Sulpice










St.Sulpice could be the most famous church which few people visit. I say this because every time I have gone, it has been close to empty except for myself and 15 other people at the most. How can this be? A very well known site in Paris and no lines to get in? No chest to back crowds? No noise? I must admit that I only went to Notre Dame long after other visits to Paris. I was always turned off by the huge crowds and the notion of waiting in line to go to church. It seemed rather un-Godly to me. After I finally got in, I must admit to feeling a little underwhelmed. Yes, it is beautiful and it's history is undeniable, but I had difficulty enjoying the marvel. Tour groups racing past me. People screeching and pointing at some detail from some famous novel*. In the end, I just wanted out. This brings me back to St. Sulpice. It is constantly under restoration. Parts of the exterior, as well as the interior are crumbling and you are afraid something will fall on you, but St.Sulpice is beautiful, haunting, mysterious, and best of all, free of crowds. Located between St.Germain-des-Pres and Jardin du Luxembourg, on Rue Bonaparte, St. Sulpice is a classic, Italian style church which took over 134 years to build. Despite it's relative newness compared with many of Paris' other churches, St. Sulpice does not suffer from it. It looks and feels solid with lots of rough edges and dark corners. Apparently this church is also mentioned in that famous novel* I mentioned before, but I have never read said novel* so can not make references as such. Once inside St.Sulpice, what is most evident, that it is dark. Even on the brightest day, it is a dark place. There are paintings by one of the greats of 19th Century Romanticism, Eugene Delacroix. The windows are free of color so the light is a cloudy white, filtering in on sharp rays. The church feels grand, but not overwhelming. Don't expect a polished pristine place. St. Sulpice is dusty and sooty and in desperate need of repair, but this said, it is also full of what one expects when visiting an old church. There is the feeling that people worshiped here and still do. There is a soulfulness there which I found missing at Notre Dame. The history has not been scrubbed away yet. If the mood and time is right, it is something of an emotional place. After moving here, I began taking french classes a couple of blocks away from St.Sulpice. After class I would often visit the church, take photos or just discover a new detail missed at other times. Place St.Sulpice, just in front of the church, has a large fountain. I ate lunch there with a classmate most Mondays. Perhaps with all these frequent visits, I have developed a biased and nonobjective opinion of St.Sulpice. Still, I encourage others to save the visit to Notre Dame for another time. If you just want to relax a bit, take your time and on the way to the Jardin Luxembourg anyway, see St.Sulpice and let me know what you think.

Labels:

Saturday, June 28, 2008

The Tower





Here is the obligatory photo of the Eiffel Tower. On my first trip, I was really amazed at how large it is. It truly is gigantic. The Champ de Mars is the park between the Eiffel Tower and the Ecole Militaire. Now, I stood in the middle of this park, frustrated because I was not seeing the classic view of the tower which has been captured in countless photos. As I walked toward the tower and then under it, my eyes were met with a wall of flashes that was almost blinding, even in daylight. I realized I was in the wrong spot. Everyone, but me, knew that the place to stand for "the" shot of the Eiffel Tower is at the Trocadéro. Like a child hypnotized by shiny objects, I followed the flashing cameras across the Seine. Suddenly, out of my trance, I was facing the tower from the other side with all the other people taking in the marvelous site. The Eiffel Tower really is a folly. I mean, it had no real purpose, people hated it and wanted it dismantled. It wasn't till they found a true purpose for it being a radio antenna that the government decided to keep it. It really is an odd thing. On the one hand you can understand the criticisms against it, yet something so strange and original is quite beautiful at the same time. It looks like nothing else before it. Now we know it instantly as Paris. These days, or should I say nights, it has lights on it that sparkle, giving it the appearance of champagne. It is a sight guaranteed to make you smile instantly. I took these photos or a slightly moody day. There was no rain, just clouds. There were not many people around, which is common in the late winter. The Trocadéro itself is quite impressive. A major Art Deco compound, it houses museums and cultural centers as well as a peaceful subterranean park. The buildings are solid and strict, even somewhat cold, yet I am constantly fascinated by them. I suggest going early in the morning or last afternoon/early evening, especially in Summer. At these times, the crowds have not arrived yet and sky can be most incredible. This is probably the most cliché spot I can recommend, but some things are classic for a reason. The Eiffel Tower is one of the true classics.

Labels:

Friday, June 27, 2008

Simple as Un Deux Trois


Years ago I remember watching a television program called American Masters. It was, or perhaps still is, a program specializing in the creative greats of America. On this one particular program, the writer James Baldwin was being honored. If I remember correctly, Baldwin had recently died and this program aired a month or so afterward. Besides all the obvious information about this great writer, I was struck by something one of his friends said...that Baldwin went to Paris to "find himself". This is a common term that is usually linked to Paris. Many writers, artists, musicians, etc. have come to Paris to find themselves. It is as if Paris is some dead letter office, but instead of letters it is souls. People come to Paris to find their soul. Baldwin did come to Paris at a time when he needed to and Paris was open at a time when it needed to be. Just after WWII, the French were grateful and in a sense ready to greet the world like it never had before. It was a city of adventure and high culture. For Americans, it was the ultimate. In 2001 I came to Paris for the first time. It was my first trip outside the U.S. and against the advice of many to go to London, I chose Paris. I grew up with all the romantic notions of Paris, but at the time of my visit, I was old enough to know romance and reality, a movie is a movie and old Paris could be gone forever. Once I got here, I realized what so many others realized before me, Paris is still the ultimate. In the winter of 2001, I was not so much in finding myself, but really wanting to understand the what this city was all about. I walked the streets, met people, drank delicious wines, ate wonderful foods and took photographs. I was captured by the beauty, yes that is obvious, but I think what held my interest more was the mood. Paris is a moody city. Sometimes the mood is good, like when there is that gorgeous golden light that breaks through clouds, hitting the stone buildings. The city of gold is here. Then there are times when the mood is not good, like when there is a cold rain in winter and you get stuck in it. The city can feel dirty and not so kind then. Still, I love the different moods and changes. The last day of my trip I walked into a store specializing in Chinese porcelain. Sitting at the table was a pretty young woman with a gamine look. Her name was Vanessa and she invited me to eat mandarin oranges with her at a blue and white porcelain table. I did. We talked. We had a cultural exchange. She was interested in American culture, but her interest was in the 50's and 60's periods. That was a time when America seemed so wide and open to Europeans, especially the French. I guess at that time, they got the best of Americans, they learned about the writers and artists, the cars and movie stars. They got the magic. As we sat there talking, I could not imagine this happening in any other place. As a light rain came down, I walked back to my hotel. I walked the flight up to my room and passed the woman who had been cleaning my room during my stay. I once noticed her admiring my Vanity Fair magazine with Keanu Reeves on the cover. She thought he was handsome. In my broken french, I asked her to wait. I got the magazine from my room and gave it to her. It was yet another kind of cultural exchange. I left Paris with the feeling that this was a place I would return to again and again. In 2007 I was given the option of living here. I accepted it and in time I discovered so much about the city, the people and the culture. This brings me to the purpose of this blog. I see tourists all the time. A recent statistic said that 80 million tourists visit France every year and I can easily believe that every one of them passes through Paris. Walking through central Paris is like swimming in a United Nations soup. Everyone wants to see The Louvre, The Museé d'Orsay, The Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, etc. but, go outside these places, just a couple of blocks over and you find no tourists, but more of the real charms of Paris. My goal is to get people to go away from the obvious sights, away from the crowds, the long lines and find the best french food you have ever eaten, the best little museums you have ever visited and the kindest people willing to offer suggestions and a cultural exchange. I live in Paris with Parisians. Their advice and suggestions I have taken and it has all helped me to understand the city, the culture and the people so much better. Even though I never had the complaints that some people have about Paris (i.e. people are rude, it is too noisy, busy,difficult to navigate...),I want to keep more of these complaints from happening. My perspective is American and that is because, well, I am American and I pretty much know how American think when they travel. With this said, this blog is for anyone who is visiting Paris and looking for suggestions on restaurants, sights, shopping, museums and all the other things travelers do while traveling. The blog is in English and in case you are wondering, my french is not so good. I try, but it is certainly a long term goal. I go around the city with my camera and take photos of places, people or moods that might be of interest. I visit places to profile on the blog and at some point, share this information with you. In essence, I am taking you along with me. I have entered my second year in Paris and there is still so much to see and learn. My greatest hope is that you enjoy this little virtual trip and decide to make a real one of your own to this truly incredible city.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

The Paris Eye

The Paris Eye
-focusing on the beauty that is a city

(premiering summer 08)

Labels: