Simple as Un Deux Trois

Years ago I remember watching a television program called American Masters. It was, or perhaps still is, a program specializing in the creative greats of America. On this one particular program, the writer James Baldwin was being honored. If I remember correctly, Baldwin had recently died and this program aired a month or so afterward. Besides all the obvious information about this great writer, I was struck by something one of his friends said...that Baldwin went to Paris to "find himself". This is a common term that is usually linked to Paris. Many writers, artists, musicians, etc. have come to Paris to find themselves. It is as if Paris is some dead letter office, but instead of letters it is souls. People come to Paris to find their soul. Baldwin did come to Paris at a time when he needed to and Paris was open at a time when it needed to be. Just after WWII, the French were grateful and in a sense ready to greet the world like it never had before. It was a city of adventure and high culture. For Americans, it was the ultimate. In 2001 I came to Paris for the first time. It was my first trip outside the U.S. and against the advice of many to go to London, I chose Paris. I grew up with all the romantic notions of Paris, but at the time of my visit, I was old enough to know romance and reality, a movie is a movie and old Paris could be gone forever. Once I got here, I realized what so many others realized before me, Paris is still the ultimate. In the winter of 2001, I was not so much in finding myself, but really wanting to understand the what this city was all about. I walked the streets, met people, drank delicious wines, ate wonderful foods and took photographs. I was captured by the beauty, yes that is obvious, but I think what held my interest more was the mood. Paris is a moody city. Sometimes the mood is good, like when there is that gorgeous golden light that breaks through clouds, hitting the stone buildings. The city of gold is here. Then there are times when the mood is not good, like when there is a cold rain in winter and you get stuck in it. The city can feel dirty and not so kind then. Still, I love the different moods and changes. The last day of my trip I walked into a store specializing in Chinese porcelain. Sitting at the table was a pretty young woman with a gamine look. Her name was Vanessa and she invited me to eat mandarin oranges with her at a blue and white porcelain table. I did. We talked. We had a cultural exchange. She was interested in American culture, but her interest was in the 50's and 60's periods. That was a time when America seemed so wide and open to Europeans, especially the French. I guess at that time, they got the best of Americans, they learned about the writers and artists, the cars and movie stars. They got the magic. As we sat there talking, I could not imagine this happening in any other place. As a light rain came down, I walked back to my hotel. I walked the flight up to my room and passed the woman who had been cleaning my room during my stay. I once noticed her admiring my Vanity Fair magazine with Keanu Reeves on the cover. She thought he was handsome. In my broken french, I asked her to wait. I got the magazine from my room and gave it to her. It was yet another kind of cultural exchange. I left Paris with the feeling that this was a place I would return to again and again. In 2007 I was given the option of living here. I accepted it and in time I discovered so much about the city, the people and the culture. This brings me to the purpose of this blog. I see tourists all the time. A recent statistic said that 80 million tourists visit France every year and I can easily believe that every one of them passes through Paris. Walking through central Paris is like swimming in a United Nations soup. Everyone wants to see The Louvre, The Museé d'Orsay, The Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, etc. but, go outside these places, just a couple of blocks over and you find no tourists, but more of the real charms of Paris. My goal is to get people to go away from the obvious sights, away from the crowds, the long lines and find the best french food you have ever eaten, the best little museums you have ever visited and the kindest people willing to offer suggestions and a cultural exchange. I live in Paris with Parisians. Their advice and suggestions I have taken and it has all helped me to understand the city, the culture and the people so much better. Even though I never had the complaints that some people have about Paris (i.e. people are rude, it is too noisy, busy,difficult to navigate...),I want to keep more of these complaints from happening. My perspective is American and that is because, well, I am American and I pretty much know how American think when they travel. With this said, this blog is for anyone who is visiting Paris and looking for suggestions on restaurants, sights, shopping, museums and all the other things travelers do while traveling. The blog is in English and in case you are wondering, my french is not so good. I try, but it is certainly a long term goal. I go around the city with my camera and take photos of places, people or moods that might be of interest. I visit places to profile on the blog and at some point, share this information with you. In essence, I am taking you along with me. I have entered my second year in Paris and there is still so much to see and learn. My greatest hope is that you enjoy this little virtual trip and decide to make a real one of your own to this truly incredible city.